by Katie Thompson
Did you know that Norfolk is home to the highest concentration of medieval churches in the world? More than 650 still stand today and many of them are here in the City of Stories. (Fun fact: Norwich has more churches than any other city north of the Alps!)
As England’s most populated county during the medieval period (Norwich was the country’s second city only after London), our churches are historically significant, breathtakingly beautiful, and still an important part of daily life.
Thanks to Norwich’s rich textile and wool trade, the city was a prosperous one. And churches were a marker of wealth at the time. From Norman round towers to thatched rooves to grand Victorian naves, you’ll even see pre-Reformation murals. Today, many remain parish churches, whilst others have taken on a new lease of life- not least thanks to the city’s creativity and community spirit. This is old meets now– think independent arts venues, cafes and even a skatepark!
If you’re interested in our country’s rich history, Norwich and its architecture are a good place to start. Keep reading for the city’s must-see churches!
St Julian’s is the site of Julian of Norwich’s anchoress cell
You’ll find St Julian’s tucked away off King Street- it’s one of the oldest churches in Norwich. Despite being dedicated to French (and male) Saint Julian, the church is best known for its association with (female) anchoress Julian of Norwich.
Known as the Julian Shrine, you can visit the site of Julian of Norwich’s cell where she wrote her renowned book Revelations of Divine Love. As the first book published by a woman in the English language, she plays an important part in our city’s rich literary heritage. This holy site is one many pilgrimage to.
While You’re Here: Spend some time in The Julian Centre, where you can discover more about Julian of Norwich’s life, stop for refreshment and take away a souvenir (open Monday, Tuesdays, Thursdays & Sundays, 10am – 3.30pm).
St Peter Mancroft is Norwich’s grand city centre church
If you’re in the centre of Norwich, chances are you’ll have seen St Peter Mancroft opposite The Forum on Millennium Plain. There has been a church on this site since 1075, with the current building holding a parish for over 600 years.
The church features knapped flintwork, a mighty tower with lead-covered fleche and 14 bells, a fine stained-glass East Window and hammerbeam arch-braced roof decorated with wooden angels- don’t forget to look up! And at the West End of the church, you might be lucky enough to see the Mancroft tapestry, expertly woven by refugee Flemish weavers (also known as Strangers) in 1573 showing the resurrection of Christ.
While You’re Here: Feeling peckish? Explore the multi-coloured stalls of Norwich Market, where worldwide flavours entice you to try everything from Spanish albondigas to New York-style sandwiches and Chilean empanadas.
Visit St Peter Hungate for amazing medieval art
For any art lover, St Peter Hungate on Princes Street is a must visit. This 13th century church houses a beautiful collection of medieval stained-glass windows, vibrant with deep reds, blues, greens, and golds. Most of the glass still dates from 15th century and depicts scenes of angels, the Apostles and more.
Today, St Peter Hungate is quite aptly home to Hungate Medieval Art (and before that St Peter Hungate Museum of Ecclesiastical Art between 1933 and the late 1990s). The charity exhibits aspects of medieval art and architecture, as well as heritage-inspired contemporary works. This church is certainly unique!
While You’re Here: Head left at the church and wander down Norwich’s most complete medieval street- Elm Hill. As if straight from a fairytale, Elm Hill is home to unique galleries, charming stores like The Bear Shop and hundreds of years of incredible history.
Don’t forget to look up in St Gregory’s!
In the Norwich Lanes, you’ll find St Gregory’s on Pottergate. This medieval church boasts quite a height compared to its length- and to dramatic effect, too. Inside, your eye is drawn upward to the original wooden ceiling, large windows, and magnificent arches. St Gregory’s is also home to some of the best 15th century wall paintings in England, including one of St George and the Dragon.
Today, the church is home to St Gregory’s Antiques and Collectables, a treasure trove of vintage fashion and jewellery, collectable books and toys, records, glass, and more!
While You’re Here: It would be rude not to try one of Norwich’s most popular fish and chip shops, Grosvenor Fish Bar. Think deliciously fluffy potatoes and crispy batter, not to mention a whole range of choices from mussels to squid to tuna!
The Halls is one of the Norwich 12 heritage buildings- it was once a Dominican friary
You might have visited St Andrew’s and Blackfriars’ Hall (known to locals as The Halls) for one of Norwich’s many markets, fairs, or beer festivals.
As part of the Norwich 12 heritage buildings, it’s the most complete medieval friary complex to survive in England, thanks to Norwich’s three-time mayor Augustine Steward’s lobbying following Henry VIII’s dissolution of the monasteries. The Halls have since been used as a school, granary, workhouse and even a mint, as well as the original home of the Norfolk & Norwich Festival.
The building itself has a Victorian Gothic porch, plain hammerbeam roof and striking flintwork. Unusually, The Halls’ tower wasn’t rebuilt after it collapsed in 1712.
Our favourite fact? Blackfriars’ Hall is home to the original copy of one of the last portraits of Norfolk naval hero Nelson, painted in 1802.
While You’re Here: If you’re tempted to learn more about Norwich’s rich history, the nearby Museum of Norwich on Bridewell Alley explores the city’s industrial past through 10 fascinating galleries (including the all-important Colman’s Mustard!)
18 of Norwich’s medieval churches are protected by the Norwich Historic Churches Trust, including St James Pockthorpe (aka Norwich Puppet Theatre!)
Many of Norwich’s historic churches are protected and preserved by Norwich Historic Churches Trust. Luckily for us, the 18 buildings are all open during September’s Heritage Open Days– our churches are an important aspect of our cityscape, after all!
While you’re visiting, we recommend paying a visit to St Swithin on St Benedicts Street. It’s been home to Norwich Arts Centre since 1980, a popular venue for live performance from comedy to jazz, local artists to well-known names.
Across the river, you’ll find St Mary Coslany on St Mary’s Plain. This is one of the oldest churches in Norwich (along with St Martin at Palace church, which is mentioned in the Domesday Book)- just take a look at its striking round tower.
And if you’re interested in round towers, take note of St Benedicts. This church isn’t visible from street level unless you know where to look (top tip: you can see it from atop the tower of The Cathedral of St John the Baptist!). Tucked away in a green at the western end of St Benedicts Street, the tower is all that remains after bombing during the Baedeker raids in World War II.
What makes Norfolk’s churches distinctive is the abundance of flintwork and round towers
Lucky enough to be staying in Norwich for more than one night? We suggest a day exploring Norfolk’s verdant countryside.
Our villages and fields are dotted with some of our most important churches, not least The Basilica of Our Lady in Walsingham, home to the Catholic National Shrine and an important spiritual destination for pilgrimage across the world.
Elsewhere, the site of Wymondham Abbey has held a church since Saxon times. This church is embedded into Norwich history as the site where William Kett (brother of Robert Kett) was hanged for his involvement in Kett’s Rebellion. You can see a memorial to both on the Abbey walls.
And if you venture further into Norfolk towards Swaffham, make sure to pay a visit to the unassuming church at Houghton-on-the-Hill near North Pickenham. The ancient St Mary’s has some of the best-preserved Saxon wall paintings in western Europe, including a rare depiction of the Holy Trinity.
